After thirty-something hours in transit – some of which were well spent walking up to and tobogganing down from the Great Wall of China at Mutianyu – Vancouver comes into focus. People seem happy here. We leave. Get on board a ferry to Victoria, B.C., where a steady stream of horses, carriages, tourists and bicycle-hockey players clog the streets. I learn to look the other way first when I’m crossing the road, though I still feel like I’m daring myself not to face the traffic that my hindbrain is sure is coming from the right.
There’s a campus with more green space than recreated gothic buildings. The university bookstore has a proud display of bongo drums and collegiate-fonted frisbees. Malcolm Lowry books are now to be found in the ‘Canadian Literature’ shelves, which temporarily solves my frustration with the omnipresence of Robert Lowell collections. A room full of driven, data-hungry North American digital humanists starts clapping. Star Wars jokes begin to pile up. Are we building the first Death Star or laying hard-vacuum foundations for the second? No one really seems to care, but clearly we’re not identifying with the Rebels.
Classes start. Note to self: bring more data next time. Organise it better. Though organisation is ostensibly one prong of the week-long course’s trident [this metaphor made better sense in my notebook], there are many more post-it notes and permanent markers than I’d anticipated for the computer-based workshop. I begin talking, thinking out loud about cataloguing or documenting journeys, differentiating between the real and imagined trips, the travel diaries and the novel, and the grey area between them. I talk further with a researcher from Vilnius, the city directly beneath the pendulum of European trade.
The trouble is that the grey areas between fact and fiction are, to me, the more interesting part. Why it matters, for example, that Lowry thought of something (anything) when he was in a certain place. Recreating whatever analog waveform he had with my own (downsampled, low bit-rate) digital version. By Thursday I’ve abandoned my plans to create a workable database of the information I’m pulling from the air and start making notes about the tools everyone else is using. Omeka. Anything from MIT or Georgia State or Texas. Oh-so-briefly glossed and unnamed TEI interfaces that seem to allow textual and visual annotation on top of whatever OCR magic is already going on. The point is clear, though there’s little initial glimmer for putative funding applications – get all of your data first, throw it into an XML or JSON database, and only then start worrying about which to use. It’s a problem for another day, another research strand.
In the evenings, walk around Victoria with Jen. Dodge the vendors and the buskers. Come to the sudden realisation that the Fairmont Empress Hotel, viewed from a certain angle, looks like nothing more than an ivy-shrouded zombie, reaching out to the harbour with spindly cyprus arms.
Back in Vancouver, and straight to UBC and the library’s Special Collections, which houses the most extensive Lowry collections I could imagine. I photograph like mad, fill out new personal / research use copy forms every couple of hours. I probably verge on annoying their (wonderfully helpful) desk staff by requesting a new folder every fifteen minutes. Wander down the rabbit-hole of Lowry’s filmscript for F. Scott Fitzgerald’s Tender is the Night, a script so long that, if it were to be filmed, would have been in excess of four hours. Did Lowry realise he wasn’t supposed to do the director’s job for him, or did it simply not matter to him?
There are parkways and boulevards at UBC, and it doesn’t seem to be an affectation. A short walk from the main campus and the fraternity housing – through the permeable bubble of Monod’s abstract kingdom, perhaps – I’m walking through a Platonic Suburbia. Old men water their lawns, mow them the next day, water them the following. If I lived here, I think, I’d be home by now.
Back in the library, I find Lowry’s own copy of the first edition of Ultramarine (1933), annotated in his hand, and start to get really excited. His deletions, additions and emendations made it into subsequent editions of the text, but there are sentences here I haven’t read before. There’s a tendency to cut off Hilliot’s inner monologue with ellipses in the first edition; by the later versions it’s been standardised to an em-dash for inner monologue and ellipses for spoken dialogue. “God” is often struck through, and replaced with “Christ”. A paragraph’s worth of Hilliot’s musings on the second page is marked to be deleted, and only three lines make the cut. Questioning his motives for the voyage, Hilliot wonders in the first edition “Had that been, was this him here, himself?” These questions of self are subsumed in my later edition, partially buried in the text, but to catch that glimmer of the writer’s process is only just short of magical.
We’re altogether too excited to see raccoons and otters in Stanley Park, to see the Lost Lagoon, to be tourists. I start talking with a bookseller about Lowry, but having switched into holiday mode for the weekend, my facts aren’t entirely straight, and I’m not sure his were either. I hear another version of the story where Lowry and friends take a mission into the city to gather more alcohol, and end up walking by a church. Lowry is briefly lost, but shortly found kneeling in front of an altar. “He’s praying,” his friends say, “We should leave him be.” As it turns out, he was weeping over a bottle of gin.
In the Vancouver Daily Province, 1939, Lowry writes:
It is difficult, of course, to pin down the original of any character in fiction for few, even when drawn from life, escape wholly from belonging to the composite order of architecture. An attitude from this person, an idiosyncrasy from that, Smith’s bowler hat, Jones’ sea boots – such are the materials which go to the creating of a character in a novel. In this respect Mr Chips, like Sherlock Holmes or Stalky, is no exception. We may track him down to his lair in the real world but he will seem, in the flesh, both more and less than the character for which he was the point of departure.
I write in my (growing) notebook that my Lowry, the Lowry of today, is both more and less than the real person who lived and wrote. Today that statement seems trite.
On our last evening in Vancouver, we are kindly driven out to Dollarton by the author of Vilnius: City of Strangers. We find the forest walk near where Lowry and his second wife had a squatter’s shack on the shore, and I pose next to the sign. The place was Eden for Lowry, a paradise just far enough away from the city to write and revise. I put my feet into the water, and try to think about coming back with a bottle of Bols and an unidentifiable paperback book. I take a photograph of a forest path that almost certainly didn’t lead to a spring, wish that the oil refinery across the water still had the word ‘SHELL’ written on it, and wish further that, like Lowry, I could have seen a plume of smoke obscure the ‘S’, leaving only the promise of Dollarton’s opposite.